Quick Healdsburg Nosh-and-Coffee Break

On my way to Mendocino recently from the Bay Area I stopped in the Sonoma wine country town of Healdsburg to stretch my legs and grab a quick lunch. Usually, I head to the swell Oakville Grocery right off the square but I'm on a budget these days so I decided to look around for something less dear.

Friends in the area have raved about Big John's, the high-end supermarket about a mile north of the town square. I headed over there, finding one of those independent, old-fashioned grocery stores with warm and friendly service and a big assortment of local produce, fruit and products -- Redwood Hill Farm cheese, Sonoma County olive oils, mustard and jam -- which make wonderful souvenirs to bring home from a trip to the wine country. Prices are probably less than you'll find at fancy winery gift shops.

I later learned that the "Big" in Big John's doesn't refer to the girth of the owner but is an acronym for Better Independent Grocers and that the store is not the decades-old institution that I assumed but actually relatively recent to these parts, having opened in 1994.

With a turkey-and-tomato sandwich on sourdough (for less than $7), some juicy local nectarines and a bottle of water I headed back the Healdsburg square for a quick picnic in the shade of redwoods.

Then, to keep me alert for the drive ahead, I headed to Flying Goat Coffee (right off the square) for a strong and rich macchiato. I picked up a gift for my hosts in Mendocino County -- a pound of Flying Goat's most popular roast, Mrs. Garland's Blend, forgetting that I was traveling to Thanksgiving Coffee Co. territory.

We'll let fans of Sonoma County's Flying Goat and Fort Bragg-based Thanksgiving, which is beloved on the north coast and by my friends in Mendocino County, battle it out. It's remarkable that we've got such choices in good coffee in these parts.

Point Richmond's Plunge Set to Re-Open

Maybe you've heard: The Plunge, the largest swimming pool in California, is reopening in Point Richmond.

The huge pool, built in 1926 in a handsome building on the railroad tracks on the edge of town, was closed in 1997 and now, after a $7.5 million renovation, is scheduled to re-open on Aug. 14 with a celebration ribbon cutting and tours. I walked outside on Saturday and workers were putting the finishing touches on the place, which houses the 9,600-square foot pool. From the looks of it, the Richmond Municipal Natatorium, as it's officially named, will be pretty swell, like it was in its heyday when it was known as the East Bay's version of San Francisco's Sutro Baths.

The Plunge is just one claim to fame of Point Richmond, a lovely place to spend an afternoon. A few good restaurants dot the streets around the central square, which is called The Triangle because it's not in the shape of a square. There's a new farmers' market Wednesdays 4 p.m.-8p.m. there that sounds worth a visit.

A couple of art galleries and gift shops surround the triangle, many housed in early 20th century buildings, restored and pretty spiffy. A friend and I fell into Hidden City Cafe not realizing it's THE place to eat in town. It's a nice little spot with a red-brick facade and, true to its name, is hard to find unless you are walking right in front of it.

The owner and chef is Shellie Bourgault, formerly of Chez Panisse. As you'd expect, she uses wonderful organic, fresh ingredients. I had the polenta scrapple with eggs and toast -- panfried wedges of polenta spreckled with pieces of Hobb's applewood bacon and herbs -- that was delicious. I've got to go back and try the pancakes, which I learned later Hidden City is famous for (it's only open for breakfast and lunch). Also, apparently, this is a favorite lunch spot of the animators at Pixar Studios: Hidden City's exterior was used in a scene in the movie Wall-E.

If you're going to check out Point Richmond, walk around the town a bit.

In front of The Plunge is one the last remaining wigwags, the old railroad crossing warning systems, now decommissioned. Turns out that there's quite a cult following of wigwags and efforts to remove them set off alarms (sorry, couldn't resist) from wigwag enthusiasts. I even found a youtube video of the Point Richmond wigwag, prior to its decommissioning (check out the brave -- or foolish -- bikers!). There IS something kind of endearing about them.

Several pretty old churches that date from the early 20th century were built on Point Richmond's hills. They are on leafy residential streets sandwiched in between old homes, some rather stately. After, get back in your car and take a right at The Plunge and drive through the Ferry Point Tunnel. The walking trails at Miller/Knox Regional Shoreline and saltwater lagoon make for a good after-lunch stroll. And, there's small, sandy Keller Beach nearby to dip your toes in the bay.

'Floating White House' Sails from Wharf

The USS Potomac, the 165-foot vessel that served as Franklin D. Roosevelt's yacht during his years in the White House, docked at San Francisco's wharf last week to promote its new ties to the Red and White Fleet, one of the city's oldest ferry companies.

Red and White, the family-owned company that was founded in San Francisco in 1892, is now marketing the Potomac for corporate events, weddings and receptions on the historic yacht as it sails the bay.

The Potomac, which at one point sunk near Treasure Island, was restored and is operated by a nonprofit group, the USS Potomac Association. Michael Roosevelt, FDR's grandson and a Bay Area resident, is association chairman.

The boat, now a National Historic Landmark, is berthed at Jack London Square in Oakland but, for special events, the Potomac will depart from the Red and White Fleet's Pier 43 1/2 at San Francisco's Wharf.

On board, you can tour the cabin where FDR slept (it's small and spartan) and have a drink and appetizers in the salon where Elvis Presley, Danny Thomas and dignitaries were hosted for receptions. Organizers can arrange for FDR (a local gentleman who dresses the part and plays the role) makes an appearance or joins groups on the sailings.

The same evening that the Potomac and Red and White announced their partnership, just a block away was another debut of new wharf happenings. Rodney Fong, grandson of Wax Museum founder Thomas Fong, unveiled the newest figure -- Mariah Carey -- which joins other female entertainers, including Madonna, Beyonce and Gloria Estefan, in the museum galleries. Buxom Mariah will be out in front of the museum for a while greeting passersby.

For more on what to do at San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, see my travel app on Fisherman's Wharf and North Beach, on sale at iTunes for .99 cents.

North Beach: A Recipe for Happiness?

The annual North Beach Festival is coming up June 19 and 20 and there may be no better ringside seat than one of the neighborhood cafes. The North Beach Chamber of Commerce says that tens of thousands are expected for the weekend. Count on every seat in every cafe to be filled.

About 125 arts and crafts booths, 20 food booths and three stages of live entertainment are on tap for the event, which stretches down Grant Avenue and around Washington Square Park in the heart of North Beach. (If you're driving, the chamber set up validated parking for $3 for the day at the Golden Gate Garage at 250 Clay, between Battery and Drumm streets, with a shuttle departing for North Beach every few minutes. You get a validation stamp at Calzone's restaurant at 430 Columbus. No purchase necessary).

At some point, you'll want to linger at one of the North Beach cafes, which are a main feature in my new North Beach app. (Yes, I know, a shameless plug). There's Caffe Trieste, of course, the best-known of them all because of its beatnik past. Caffe Puccini still attracts some of the old-time Italians left in the neighborhood and its Lucchese roots are showcased with posters of native son Puccini's works on the walls. Everyone's favorite sandwich and people-watching spot, Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store, stands as it has for decades on the corner of Columbus and Union. A young crowd packs Steps of Rome, where flirtatious Italian waiters keep things light and fun. With World Cup matches taking place, this cafe, with its big-screen TVs, will be rocking. There are probably a dozen more cafes around the neighborhood.
Find your own and think of this Lawrence Ferlinghetti poem -- "Recipe for Happiness: Khaborvsk or Anyplace" -- that I heard recited recently on a brilliant sunny day in North Beach. It made me teary, the way something beautiful and true sometimes does. Ferlinghetti, of course, was a co-founder of City Lights bookstore in North Beach and still is seen around the neighborhood. Even though a place called Khaborvsk is alluded to in the title, I like to think the poem was written at one of those well-worn tables in one of North Beach's old cafes:

One grand boulevard with trees
with one grand cafe in sun
with strong black coffee in very small cups.

One not necessarily very beautiful
man or woman who loves you.

One fine day.

North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf, by App

My new travel app on San Francisco's North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf is out and available on iTunes. I'll have more in future blog posts but check it out if you're looking for a guide to these two favorite San Francisco areas, among the top-visited places in the city.
I've included descriptions of more than 80 cafes, restaurants, shops, bakeries, bars, attractions and historic sites. It's an insider's guide: I lived in North Beach for many years and my Italian family has roots there.
I've also covered the waterfront from Ghirardelli Square south to Pier 39 where, amid the souvenir shops catering to millions of tourists, there's still authentic San Francisco in the colorful old fishing boats, the smell of boiling crab pots and oven-fresh sourdough bread.
The app sells for .99 cents and includes dozens of photos, interactive maps, telephone numbers and web site links to help plan a trip, and to use while visiting San Francisco.
It can be used together with my first app, San Francisco's Chinatown, which was released earlier this year and covers the city's Chinese quarter that, in some places, overlaps with North Beach.
Both apps were produced by Sutro Media, a San Francisco company that is creating a collection of worldwide guides of photos and useful travel information, downloadable onto computers and mobile devices. Enjoy.

Impressionism Exhibit Opens at de Young

The Impressionism exhibition that opened at San Francisco's de Young Museum this weekend has all the makings of a blockbuster event: nearly 100 paintings from the Musee d'Orsay's permanent collection that will never be loaned out for an exhibition as a group again, according to the French government.
Through Sept. 6, the first of two exhibitions is on view: Birth of Impressionism: Masterpieces from the Musee d'Orsay.
Eleven galleries are filled with art by Bouguereau, Manet, Renoir, Sisley, Caillebotte, Monet, Pissaro, Cezanne and Degas.
On a media tour on Wednesday, it was clear that this is the kind of exhibit you want to linger over and return to again if possible. The paintings are indeed masterpieces, the ones that people travel to Paris to view -- or only see in an art history book.
The works include The Fifer and Woman with Fans by Manet, The Magpie by Monet and The Floor Scrapers by Caillebotte. A famous American work is in the mix: Whistler's Mother by Whistler.
The exhibition breaks down the evolution of Impressionism in engaging and understandable pieces for a layperson.
It traces the origins of Impressionism and how it grew in the late 19th century when the political and social turmoil in France was reflected in the art produced by the greatest painters of the time.
Some art lovers may look at this exhibit, however, as a warm-up act: the de Young's second Musee d'Orsay exhibit this fall will be devoted to Post-Impressionism, with the works of Van Gogh, Gauguin and Cezanne.
The two back-to-back exhibitions are the only such exhibitions anywhere in the world. How did San Francisco get so lucky? The city was in the fortunate position to take advantage of the closure of the Musee d'Orsay as it undergoes a major renovation for its 25th anniversary in 2011. Besides a sister-city partnership between San Francisco and Paris, there is a close relationship between board members and the directors of the two museums that led to the mounting of the two exhibitions.
The de Young has instituted the timed-viewing arrangement that works well for these types of blockbuster exhibits. But there's also something new.
In addition to the regular hours and Friday Nights at the de Young series, the museum scheduled extended viewing hours -- until 8:45 p.m. (last ticket: 7:30 p.m.) -- on Thursday evenings from June 17 until Sept. 2. Called "Impressionism at Twilight," the Thursdays offer reduced admission and a special fixed price menu at the de Young Cafe. Also, the tower, usually closed in the evenings, will be open so that visitors will be able to watch the sunset from high above the museum.

A Destination Diner

The Putah Creek Cafe in Winters is the kind of place you hope to find on a long road trip. It's cheery, comfy and, even though it's relatively new, it feels as though it's been part of small-town life for decades. Oh, and the food is good.
This isn't the kind of diner that relies on a pre-packaged food distributor for its menu items. Most things are made on site, including pies and desserts such as apricot bars, which garnered a rave in the late Gourmet magazine some years back (Despite encroaching development, Winters remains a farm town, surrounded by orchards and the fruit is used in the restaurant).
I tried the locals' favorite (according to the waitress), the Buckhorn Farmer's Market Char-Roast Sirloin Sandwich with the side of cole slaw and French dip. It was delicious.
Then, I wandered the quaint old town and had an excellent espresso at a homey coffeehouse, Steady Eddy's, across the railroad tracks on the shady town park, which stretches to Putah Creek. A rebuilt, historic trestle bridge -- now for bicyclists pedestrians only -- crosses the creek and lies alongside another historic bridge, this one a concrete arch span for cars, built in 1907.
The Putah Creek Cafe is a sister restaurant to the better-known Buckhorn steak houses (there's one across the street at this intersection of Winters' Main Street) and in Marin County. All are known for their Angus beef.
I can now vouch for the excellent beef. Next time I'm going to get to Putah Creek Cafe a little earlier and try the breakfasts, which I hear are scrumptious. And, I'll leave room for a piece of pie.

Wet, Windy Jenner

I spent a rainy and windy Sunday and night at the Jenner Inn last week on the Sonoma Coast but it was a wonderful experience because of the hospitality of Richard Murphy, the inn owner. Murphy assembled the property over the course of years by buying ramshackle logging cabins on the Russian River estuary and transforming them into a romantic collection of bed-and-breakfast-style rooms.
Being with a group of friends from the local chapter of the Society of American Travel Writers made the gray, wet skies enjoyable. For the first time, I understood why the adjective "forbidding" is used for this kind of weather. The storm was so harsh that driving was a challenge. Our plans for hiking and kayaking quickly changed. We couldn't kayak the estuary and see the wildlife, disappointing because harbor seal pups are born in March and April, also big birding season.
Still, we braved the storm during a short break and headed out toward Shell Beach, starting at Goat Rock and walking muddy paths lined with wildflowers. Randy Johnson of Getaway Adventures was our guide. The waves swirled and crashed on the rocks and sea stacks. The scenery, even in the misty gloom, was spectacular.
Murphy, who has owned Jenner Inn since the 1970s, recently hired a new chef for the restaurant, focusing on local, organic food. He is realistic about the potential for tourism for Jenner, population 170. He knows it's not a place you stay for a while, unless you love the outdoors. Lots of his guests are out-of-state vacationers driving the California coast on Highway 1, staying a night only.
For northern Californians looking for a weekend getaway, it's a romantic spot that's well situated for exploring the beaches of the Sonoma County coast and simply relaxing by a fire or on a deck overlooking the water.
The inn's historic bar, with its big fireplace and large windows overlooking the highway and estuary beyond, was part of an early 20th century building that was once the general store and post office. There's also a cozy library room stocked with books, comfy sofas and wood-burning stove.
The 21 rooms are spread over a wide area, including up the road a bit (a short walk) in remodeled cabins perched above the water. I stayed in Mystic Landing (see above) with a deck, fireplace, antique furniture and good views that stretched beyond the estuary to the Pacific. I'm already planning a return in better weather for that delayed kayak trip with WaterTreks, a local outfitter run by Suki Waters, a native of the Sonoma Coast (who is part Pomo Indian).